In the past few days, quite a few readers have been sending me emails expressing their worries about traveling to Guatemala. The questions usually go like this:
“Hey Rich, I (or ‘my son/daughter’) will be traveling to Guatemala soon. Will they be safe despite the recent eruptions of Volcan de Fuego and/or Pacaya Volcano?”
Wait… Pacaya Volcano too?
Most of you have heard about Volcán de Fuego’s deadly eruption, but Pacaya Volcano, a popular tourist attraction and a volcano 30 miles south of Guatemala City (Antigua is even farther away) has also increased its activity lately. A larger than usual cloud of ash expelled from Pacaya on Wednesday 13, led officials to close La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City for a few hours, just to be on the safe side. Pacaya did spew a bit of lava, but nothing that even remotely threatened nearby communities like the pyroclastic flow from Fuego Volcano.
As it happens with any natural disaster that makes news around the world, it’s natural to be apprehensive about traveling near the affected area. But if your concern is whether you should cancel your trip to Guatemala due to the events that happened with Fuego Volcano earlier in June, here’s my short answer:
No. You should not cancel your trip to Guatemala because of Fuego Volcano’s recent or future eruptions.
If that’s all you needed to know, great! You can stop reading right here.
However, if you’re still side-eyeing your computer/phone as you read this, allow me to give you three reasons you should continue your plans to visit Guatemala, so you can reach your own conclusions.
#3 – The area affected by eruptions is relatively small
Fuego Volcano is close enough to Antigua Guatemala that it’s possible to see eruptions on a clear day, and if it’s spewing lava, enjoy colorful fireworks at night. But if Fuego Volcano has ever threatened Antigua with any of its eruptions, I’ve yet to read about it during my research of the city’s history.
For your reference, here’s a map I shared earlier of where Fuego’s eruption took place:
#2 – Popular tourist destinations were never in danger
I realize that readers that are not familiar with Guatemala may have a little trouble placing the eruption in a geographical context, especially if traveling to other destinations in Guatemala, such as the Tikal pyramids, near Flores, or to the Lake Atitlan area and beyond.
Here’s how the area affected by the eruption looks when compared to a broader view of the country:
In popular tourist destinations, such as Lake Atitlan and Xela, ashes from Fuego never reached them, as the wind pushed ash clouds south and east of Fuego Volcano. Flores and the Mayan Tikal pyramids are just too far away due north.
The only road affected by the eruption was RN-14, a two-lane road that connected Antigua Guatemala to Escuintla and the Pacific Coast. This two-lane road can be easily bypassed with a somewhat lengthy detour via Villa Nueva.
#1 – If you cancel your trip, you’ll be hurting working Guatemalans
Your priority is your well-being and that of your family, which I’m totally on board with. But unless your travel plans included visiting the towns directly affected by the eruption, Fuego Volcano will not change your travel plans one bit.
If I’ve convinced you that you’ll be fine and you’re still on the fence, just know that Guatemala depends heavily on tourism to sustain its economy.
Most Guatemalans affected directly by the tragedy will receive ample support from relief organizations. But when tourists stop coming, it also hurts a lot more working people in the hospitality and food industries, shops, street vendors, handicrafts vendors, and generally anyone that benefits from having more visitors like you around.
The people of Guatemala are still waiting for you
I’ve heard directly from business owners in Antigua that they’ve experienced 25% drops in income last week – not great, especially since May is the start of the rainy season and tourism dips enough at this time as it is.
Spanish schools in Antigua have reported cancellations from student groups heading to Guatemala. Even far-off hotels in Petén, where the Mayan pyramids are located, have also reported cancellations.
I’m 99.9% confident that these cancellations were totally unnecessary based on the facts we have right now, and the projections for future volcanic activity.
If you still don’t believe me that everything is fine in Antigua, here’s a picture I took yesterday while walking about.
Sunday morning, on June 4, Fuego Volcano began rumbling like thunder and erupting with great columns of ash, both seen and heard from miles away. This was not unusual, as Fuego is an active volcano – eruptions like the one on Sunday morning seemed a bit stronger than most, but nothing particularly worrisome.
But on that Sunday, this would be a tragic assumption for many residents who didn’t think anything was out of the ordinary until it was too late.
Ash falls on Antigua Guatemala
Fuego Volcano is just 10 miles from Antigua Guatemala. It’s eruptions and spectacular lava flows are rarely a threat to its residents.
Occasionally, ash clouds from Fuego’s most violent eruptions will reach Antigua Guatemala if the wind happens to blow just right. When strong eruptions occur, the ash will blanket courtyards, sidewalks, and cars in coats of fine powdery, silver-colored “snow.” But unlike previous dustings of ash, Sunday’s event seemed much stronger than previous occurrences and the ash much bigger in diameter.
To the poor residents living in the towns at the foot of these volcanoes, massive eruptions will trigger evacuation orders if the falling ash poses a health hazard. Orders like these are routinely ignored since local residents don’t have a place to stay nor money for public transportation – to leave their homes is a huge inconvenience to them.
Unfortunately, this was no ordinary eruption – it was Fuego Volcano’s most violent eruption in 44 years, and it would catch residents and CONRED, Guatemala’s crisis management department, off-guard.
Fuego’s eruption as seen from space
Many would be presumed dead hours after the initial eruption, when rather than fleeing for their lives, they obliviously kept on filming the fast approaching pyroclastic flow – some amused, not realizing they were staring at death coming for them.
As the pyroclastic flow descended, the magnitude of the flow was still unknown to CONRED. The organization had sent personnel earlier that day to issue evacuation orders to the small village of El Rodeo and San Miguel Los Lotes, the towns most aligned with the direct path of the flow.
One CONRED representative and two firefighters were in town making the rounds and loudly urging people to leave their homes – most residents were refusing to leave, when an avalanche of ash and rocks hotter than 500 degrees, along with toxic fumes, caught them all by surprise.
Only when the ash began to settle just a few hours later, was the true extent of the devastation revealed.
San Miguel Los Lotes covered in ash from Fuego’s eruption. Source: Unknown
The main highway was left impassable. Source: Unknown
The CONRED representative and the volunteer firefighters were confirmed dead on Monday.
As soon as the flow stopped, search and rescue teams, local firefighters, and medical personnel jumped into action.
Stunned survivor burned and covered in ash. Source: Unknown
Many of these volunteer teams worked relentlessly, often without the benefit of protective respiratory gear, or proper protective footwear. As rescuers raced to enter buried communities, many would soon discover that the soles on their boots were melting from the still-intense heat of the rocks that had just descended from Fuego Volcano.
Boots with melted rubber soles. Source: Unknown.
Many rescuers have received severe burns on their feet. They searched for survivors until the could not walk anymore.
*Warning: Graphic image of burns below*
Rescuers feet burned due to inadequate footwear.
Contrast this to a photo op by a government official (congressman) who had to be “rescued” by eight people because his feet were “burned” while visiting the site.
I wonder why people are upset with him… Source: Estuardo Paredes/Prensa Libre
Fortunately, private businesses (not the government) has provided sturdier footwear to rescuers.
New shoes. Source: Unknown
As of right now, the rescuers are in need of shovels, hammers, and other tools needed to rescue any possible survivors – they’re still out there. On Sunday, this baby was pulled out from a house, unharmed.
Baby rescued from eruption rubble. Source: Unknown
More info on what happened to the baby in the Updates section below.
Pyroclastic flow vs. lava flow
There are a lot of pictures circulating online that are tagged as coming from Guatemala, but they’re patently false – most are from Hawaii’s recent eruption. Both are fundamentally different events.
Instead of Hawaii’s slow-moving lava, Fuego’s eruption is cataloged as a pyroclastic flow. The flow that destroyed entire villages and buried beautifully posh La Reunion Golf Resort was a mix of ash, pumice, lava blocks, and volcanic gas. This mix travels considerably faster than lava flows, up to 430 miles per hour, and at temperatures up to 1,000 degrees.
Survivors, especially children, have a difficult life ahead. Many children have been left orphaned and many more have been found dead, still huddled up in their rooms – they were overcome with the toxic fumes and burnt by the hot rocks and ash that tore through the sheet metal shacks they called home.
I tagged along with a group to visit Alotenango on Monday to help a tiny bit with the supplies we had on hand and meet survivors. There were a public service and funeral for the first seven victims recovered – there are 69 confirmed deaths already. As soon as this funeral was over, more caskets filled the stage with new victims.
A public funeral in Alotenango for victims
This large hall is usually the stage for Patron Saint festivities, Christmas parties, school and civil acts, but rarely used for something as grim as this. The smell of embalming fluid used on the bodies laid on caskets on the stage you see here was noticeable.
At the precise moment I took this pic, Guatemala’s President was doing a nationally televised conference from the second floor, which is located almost right above the caskets.
The President speaks to the press at Alotenango
He had come under fire earlier Monday for his remarks lamenting that the state did not have funds to help survivors and would have to scrounge them up from somewhere.
In January of this year, however, a newspaper reported about his extravagant lifestyle, which included spending $3,000 dollars on a single pair of designer glasses. This is a country where many public school students don’t even have desks or chairs to sit on and receive classes while sitting on the floor, or buy their own desks if they can afford them. Just the price tag of his sunglasses alone would’ve paid for over 150 desks. To no one’s surprise, his comments have upset a lot of citizens.
Guatemalans already know that they can’t depend on their government officials for help during a crisis. It was quite a sight to see an endless parade of vehicles full of citizens, foreigners, and organizations, mobilizing to bring much-needed medicine, clothes, and food to the close to 700 survivors, 20 to 30 to a room, temporarily living in a shelter right across the street from where this funeral took place.
Shelter in Alotenango – access is restricted
The people working there to sort and distribute everything is largely made up of local residents, as are the Search and Rescue teams, many who have worked up to 16 hours straight since the eruption started. Some government higher up will take the credit – they always do, but there are a lot of unsung heroes doing for others and giving more than they would ever give for themselves.
How to help
If you’re thinking of sending any goods here, don’t. Far too costly and most likely cheaper if the needed items are bought here.
There’s a rash of well-intentioned, but misguided people setting up GoFundMe pages and soliciting donations via PayPal. Unfortunately, among the good people, there will be scammers as well. My advice is to only donate to people that you truly and personally know will use your money to help the victims.
So far, all I’ve seen are people rushing into supermarkets and pharmacies and buying a bunch of canned goods and medical supplies that may or may not be actually consumed by the people that need them. Their intentions are good, but if they’re not going to the right people then it will be truly a waste.
Sidestep all of this by donating directly to organizations with good track records, local contacts, and channels in place to help not only the people at the shelters but the people badly burned that are clinging to life in undermanned, underfunded local hospitals.
Sadly, a week from now donations will stop and most people will move on. However, survivors can’t remain in shelters forever. I recommend helping organizations that are already here and will be committed to helping in the medium and long-term. Some of these organizations are:
As a precaution, I also recommend staying away from non-profits that are totally unrelated to disaster relief and are using this occasion to raise funds for their own causes. Again, their intentions might be good, but it’s doubtful that they’re committed to helping survivors long-term if disaster relief isn’t their primary or even secondary core mission.
Same applies for every religious organization, selfie-taking volunteer, and missionaries living in gated communities that are asking money to go buy supplies – if it wasn’t their core mission to help disaster relief efforts before, then I caution you to do your due diligence before sending them any money.
My wife went to visit the shelter today along with the team from Campos de Sueños and spent some time with the children there. They brought toys yesterday and today had fun activities to keep the children entertained, which judging by their smiles the children really appreciated it. Some of the children couldn’t hide the sadness on their face once the team finished spending time with them and headed out.
Survivors at Alotenango’s shelter.
Children being led in prayer.
Books and toys donated by Campos de Sueños staff.
On another front, my wife spoke with one of the local coordinators. They had self-organized and spent hours sorting and distributing goods to those who needed it, keeping track of everything.
Today, however, government officials arrived and quickly set up shop, telling the volunteers that they were now in charge and things were to be done their way. They also barred local volunteers from talking to the media. The top government official on the scene directed that all interviews were to go through him. Which of course he began with the statements “We have set up…” and “We have done…”.
Understandably, these actions have local volunteers fuming, who feel that officials are coming in late now that they’ve done the hard work of setting everything up to take all the credit and cherrypick what is given out and set aside what they’ll keep for themselves.
There are already reports that new clothes are being set aside for unknown purposes, while survivors receive all the older clothes. Same goes for medicine, as older, expired medicine is given out first.
As it stands right now, donating food and clothes is becoming really unnecessary, as the warehouses are full of them and survivors are unlikely to see much of it if past actions by government officials are any indication. It’s recommended to check in with shelters first to establish what is truly needed and donate that instead and to donate money to medium and long-term causes that will directly benefit survivors.
Update #2: Tuesday, June 5, 2018
It has been reported that there were more eruptions from Fuego Volcano today, which caused rescue teams to leave the area – further evacuation orders have been issued.
There was a strong thunderstorm accompanied by heavy rains in the afternoon, which while good for getting rid of some ash and dust, temporarily halted search efforts.
Update #3: Wednesday, June 6, 2018
Fuego Volcano appears to show normal activity at this moment, though those in surrounding areas further south are still in a red-alert emergency state.
There were rumors on Tuesday that another pyroclastic flow greater than Sunday’s was headed towards the main highway to the coast, CA-9, located a few kilometers further down from the reach of the initial flow. This sent residents and refugees into a panic. Fortunately, those rumors were false.
Volcanic activity as of Wednesday morning.
The baby rescued in the video above, as well as a second baby, found later in the area, were placed in foster homes in Guatemala City. As of today, the alleged father and grandmother of the little girl in the video have shown up to claim her, but the baby won’t be released to relatives until a DNA test conclusively proves they’re related. The local paper reports that a vast number of calls have been received from families looking to adopt her.
Update #4: El Rodeo – The town and its children before the eruption
Almost two years to the date, on June 26, 2016, my wife and I visited Aldea El Rodeo to deliver bookbags for children in the community. These bookbags had been donated by a local church in Florida and my mother had sent them to be distributed.
As you can see in the photo below, El Rodeo is very close to Fuego Volcano. I took a pic of this eruption, which appeared impressive to me, though residents barely batted an eye. These types of displays from Fuego are commonplace, which likely contributed to the complacency and reluctance of residents to leave.
Fuego volcano erupting in 2016 as seen from the entrance to El Rodeo
To reach El Rodeo via public transportation, it’s necessary to take a bus traveling between Antigua Guatemala and Escuintla. These buses leave Antigua Guatemala every hour, so if heading south, away from the volcano, residents would’ve had a long wait, unless they happened to catch a bus heading in the opposite direction, towards Antigua.
El Rodeo before the eruption
Most of the homes we visited that day were located in alleys far from the main road. The overwhelming majority of residents did not possess any mode of personal transportation. Just getting out to the main road would have been a struggle, especially if the dirt paths were still muddy from recent rains.
Dirt paths deep into El Rodeo homes.
House in the path of eruption – you can see ash clouds in the background.
We spoke with many of the children and their families. Many of the teens expressed a desire to one day be able to leave the town and attend the nearest university in Escuintla. They were extremely sweet and friendly with anyone who showed interest in them.
Many of the children said they wanted to be doctors (to help their community), teachers, or architects (to build better homes for their families). As the pictures show below, many lived in shacks constructed over dirt lots.
Of the children I took photos of below, I do not know how many made it out, if at all. I’ll try to find out more information and keep you posted.
I’m glad to report all the children pictured above were able to escape without harm to nearby Escuintla.
Agua Volcano (known as Volcan de Agua), should get credit for making Antigua Guatemala as gorgeous a town as it is. There are other Spanish colonial towns in Mexico and Central America, but none have the towering backdrop that Antigua does.
While I’m not much of a hiker, I knew I’d climb Agua one day, if only to enjoy the view of Antigua from above – which I’ve done twice now.
Stunning Agua Volcano
Here’s how to hike Agua Volcano safely.
Agua Volcano’s History
There are three volcanoes within view of Antigua Guatemala: Agua (3,766 meters above sea level – MASL), Fuego (3,830 MASL) and Acatenango (3,976 MASL). Agua is extinct (hasn’t had an eruption in recorded history), Fuego is active, while Acatenango is dormant, having last erupted in 1976.
Agua Volcano is sacred to the Mayas and was called Hunahpu, which is also the name of one of the original deities found in their secret text, the Popol Vuh. The “water” moniker comes from colonial times when a mudslide caused by an earthquake destroyed the original capital, which was located in Ciudad Vieja – or more accurately, San Miguel Escobar, as archeological remains bear out.
The common belief is that there was once a crater lake atop Agua – as you’ll see in the pics below. At the time, there was an earthquake, which loosened a side of the mountain, causing the lake to empty out and destroy the capital, burying it in mud, boulders, and uprooted trees. This theory – often taken as fact – doesn’t match geological studies.
In 1895, archeologists Anne Cary Maudslay and her husband, Alfred Percival Maudslay hiked Agua. Their examination of the soil and break in the crater wall showed that if there was indeed a crater lake at the time (which they determined there wasn’t), the water would not have reached the town or caused the mudslide anyway. Their theory was that one of the gulleys could’ve held enough water during a storm to cause the mudslide. This is consistent with the reports at the time that it had been raining heavily for three days when the mudslide occurred.
This theory was proven correct in 2010, when Tropical Storm Agatha swept through Guatemala, dumping copious amounts of rain. It caused a huge mudslide that killed 9 people and buried houses at the site of the former capital.
Hiking Agua Volcano
Agua has a deserved reputation as being unsafe to climb due to robberies. Last year, a 77-year old German tourist, on a hike with his wife, was shot twice during a robbery attempt (the man survived). In 2014, a group of bikers, on tour with Old Town Outfitters, were robbed at gunpoint and hit with machetes.
Now, these are isolated incidents. People climb Agua every week and, with a bit of preparation, the security risk can be mitigated. If you’ve got the cash, the risk can almost be completely eliminated.
The first step when climbing Agua is to notify INGUAT, the official Tourism Organization in Guatemala – call the Antigua offices at +502 7832-0787. They can, in turn, call the Municipal Office in Santa Maria de Jesus, which is the town closest to Agua’s summit and from where all hikes begin.
Agua Volcano as seen from Santa Maria de Jesus
If your Spanish is up to snuff, you can call the Municipal Office yourself at +502 7832-3543. You need to contact them at least three days ahead of time so they can assign you a Police escort through the first – and sketchiest – part of the ascent. You’ll likely be assigned a couple Police officers, who can also go with you all the way to the summit and back – the going “tip” rate seems to be between Q150-Q200 per officer. Additionally, you’ll have to pay a park entrance fee of Q20 per person at the Municipal Office, located near the Central Plaza.
When to Visit
The best time to visit Agua Volcano is during the dry season, which runs from November to April. Though the temperatures are colder, you’ll have a better shot at climbing during a clear day and catching beautiful views from the summit.
If in Antigua during the wet season (March – October), you may take advantage of the “canicula”, a period of a few weeks between July and August when the rain stops and weather gets hotter. Climbing Agua when it rains isn’t fun, as the trail is muddy and the rocky paths make hiking treacherous.
What to Wear
For most of the year, and depending on your level of activity, you should be fine dressing in a couple layers. A windbreaker or light jacket will suffice. I also recommend wearing hiking boots or something that provides ankle stability. Though I did see somebody attempt to hike it with dress pants and dress shoes. Go figure.
If you’re climbing at the end of the year, be aware of cold fronts coming from North America, especially if you’re thinking of camping at the summit overnight.
Last year, I didn’t bother checking the weather before climbing – a mistake. There was a nasty cold front coming from Canada, which brought freezing rain and a sudden temperature drop that I was not prepared for. It was so cold my lips turned purple, and my daughter and I had run back down after 20 minutes because we couldn’t take withstand the low temperatures.
Unfortunately, some people did hike Acatenango Volcano that same day for an overnight stay, and most were ill-prepared. The next day we found out that six hikers had died at Acatenango Volcano after their tents flooded and they got lost trying to head down at midnight to avoid temperatures as low as -6F degrees. Dress in layers and you’ll be fine.
How Long Does It Take?
Hiking Agua can be done in one day. Most people take 4-6 hours to climb, less time to climb down. I left with a group at 7 am, Caminata Familiar, and was back at around 6 pm. This was at a very slow pace, with numerous stops, and a half-hour stop at the summit. Oh, and my wife hurt her knee halfway down, which slowed us considerably and delayed us a good two hours.
By the way, the Caminata Familiar (Family Walk) is held yearly, on the first or second Saturday of the year. The cost is only Q40 per person and there’s military and police presence throughout, along with first responders – as safe as you can get climbing Agua. This year, around 500 people made the hike to the summit.
The Actual Hike
We arrived at the main plaza in Santa Maria de Jesus at about 6:30 am. To get here from Antigua, take a Santa Maria-bound microbus (“Santa” they call it) at the bus terminal. The trip costs Q4 per person one-way and takes about 45-55 minutes. The buses will drop you off a block away from the plaza.
Plaza, Santa Maria de Jesus
Agua Volcano at dawn, Santa Maria
Listening to instructions from the guide
Starting the hike
Soldiers accompanied the group throughout the hike
The first part of the hike is pretty straightforward. For the most part, the path is well-worn and easy to follow. There are signs pointing the way – there’s no sign that marks the official entrance.
“To the crater”
There’s small chapel at the foot of the mountain. It’s from here, I was told, that a religious procession is carried out to the summit of Agua, culminating at feet of the Black Christ (Cristo Negro de Esquipulas) statue at the summit (pics below).
Police looking over hikers
There are a few crosses spaced out along the way. From what I understand they are procession markers, used for religious purposes. I counted five, but there may be more.
At the slopes of Agua, the land is very fertile, so it’s used to grow crops. These fields are burned at the end of the harvest, contributing to the hazy air over Antigua in the month of February.
“Come on buddy, you can do it”
During the walk, there were a couple designated rest stops and makeshift stores. The first stop was 2:00 hours away from the plaza.
Hikers resting for a spell
Just a few minutes from the first stop is a lookout point “Mirador”, which has rickety lookout tower. There’s a latrine and a flat camping area.
Mirador (Lookout point)
An hour and a half later we arrived at the second rest stop, or halfway point, known as La Olla (The Pot). Apparently, there’s a family that lives here and that has a small store where you can get instant coffee and cup-o-noodles.
Arriving at La Olla
Tienda at Agua Volcano
A few minutes from the second stop is La Quebrada (The Ravine), a dramatic spot and the most memorable feature of the hike apart from the summit. The path occasionally gets destroyed, making it treacherous and sometimes impossible to reach the summit. For the most part, the path is kept in shape.
La Quebrada (The Ravine)
Treacherous path if raining heavily
Outstanding view from here
On the day we climbed, about a dozen riders in dirt bikes made the trip as well. They also have been victims of robberies, so I don’t blame them for tagging along, even though they did annoy climbers because of all the dust they kicked up as they went by.
Dirt bike mountain climbing
While the climb is shorter at Agua than other volcanoes, it’s often considered tougher. The path is full of rocks, making the hike a bit more technical.
We arrived at the summit after six hours, which was slow, though we definitely were not the last ones to climb.
Hikers taking a break at the summit
Cross and cell phone towers atop the crater walls
Agua’s crater is big enough to accommodate a soccer field. There’s a structure with a chapel at the center and two empty rooms on either side of the chapel. Trash surrounds the structure.
Chapel and crater
Fog makes for a scene out of a horror movie
On a clear day, the views are outstanding. You can see Antigua and surrounding towns, though I couldn’t quite make out specific buildings. Lake Amatitlan is clearly visible from here.
Antigua Guatemala as seen from Agua Volcano
Panoramic view of Agua
I climbed Agua a second time because I couldn’t enjoy the view the first time. Mission accomplished on the second try.
Would I climb it a third time? I highly doubt it – though that’s what I said the first time. Maybe time for a new challenge instead.
If you want to cross off “CLIMB A VOLCANO” off your bucket list, you can still do that here with minimal strain. Check out our guide to hiking Pacaya Volcano below.
Before visiting Guatemala, the closest I’d been to a volcano was when I visited Leahi Volcano – better known as iconic Diamond Head Volcano, overseeing Waikiki Beach, in Oahu, Hawaii. Because it’s only 760-feet high, it’s impressive mostly because of its beautiful surroundings. I was even more impressed the first time I saw Agua Volcano, as it loomed over Antigua.
Ask a child to draw a volcano, and what will end up on paper is a pretty close approximation to what Agua Volcano (3,760 meters/ 12,335 feet) looks like – an imposing, triangle-shaped mass that dominates the surrounding landscape. Even more impressive is Fuego Volcano, to the east, which tends to put on a fireworks show for visitors occasionally.
Anyone can book a trek up to Agua’s summit – a strenuous 4-6 hour climb not meant for badly out-of-shape hikers, those with bad knees, or the just plain lazy. To see Fuego up close, you have to climb its next-door neighbor – and currently dormant, Acatenango Volcano, an even tougher challenge, requiring a 6-8 hour climb and an overnight stay near the summit.
Fast Facts About a Pacaya Volcano Hike
The cost to visit: $8 for a shuttle to National Park (includes round-trip transportation, guide, and marshmallows), Q50 for park entrance (mandatory fee), Q5 for walking stick rental (optional/negotiable), Q100-200 for a horseback ride to the top (optional/negotiable).
Effort level: Moderate – Total distance round trip: 5km
Time: Schedule about 6 hours for the entire trip. Open: Daily – 365 days of the year
Height: 2,562.08 meters (8,405.77 feet)
Where is Pacaya Volcano?
About an hour away from Antigua Guatemala is Pacaya Volcano. The reason why you can’t see Pacaya from Antigua is that Agua Volcano sits directly between you and it – Pacaya can be easily seen from Guatemala City, as it’s only 40 km to the southwest.
While Pacaya Volcano tends to erupt once in a while – in 2010 it blanketed Guatemala City with black ash, like a reverse White Christmas, it’s generally safe to visit.
Arranging a visit to Pacaya borders on the trivial – any travel agency in town can book you a seat on one of the shuttles making the trip to Pacaya Volcano National Park. With promises of getting close to scalding rivers of lava – the travel agency pictures did look amazing, we booked a trip with the cheapest shuttle provider we could find, which ended up being about Q60 per person.
Our Visit to Pacaya
The 12-seat passenger van picked us up near a hotel at about 3:30 pm. The van was nearly empty, except for a young couple I later learned was from Australia.
The ride was uneventful, with nothing terribly interesting to see, other than the locals going about their lives in the mostly rural community of San Francisco de Sales, which happens to be located at the foot of Pacaya Volcano. The trip lasted nearly an hour.
At Pacaya’s National Park
As we arrived at the park’s Visitors Center, before we even had a chance to get off the shuttle, we were swarmed by children, each holding long wooden sticks in their hands.
At first, I didn’t understand why they were so excited about our arrival but eventually figured out they were “selling” us walking sticks. Well, we’d technically be renting them.
Later, we ran into the same children once we descended on the other side of the volcano, where they helpfully offered to dispose of our now-useless walking sticks. At about Q5, I figured they would come in handy, so I “purchased” three.
The park’s Visitors Center is located in a small green building, attended by mostly bored-looking staff. Once we paid our entrance fee (Q50/foreigners, Q20/locals), we were handed off to a chipper guide, who would guide our 45-minute ascent.
Climbing Pacaya Volcano
Our guide led us on the well-marked trail, pointing out facts about the vegetation around us, which I found mildly interesting and forgot all about the minute I climbed off the volcano.
With the young Australian couple literally leaping with every step (I’m sure any resemblance to kangaroos was purely coincidental), I became resigned to the fact I’d be the one to bring up the rear. The fit Australians impatient stares only made me even more embarrassed to be so out of shape. All this happened during the first five minutes of the climb – I was going to be in for a long afternoon.
We stopped quite a few times along the way to admire the view and gaze at Agua Volcano in the distance from various lookout points.
When we arrived at the first clearing, we were joined by two men offering horseback rides to the top. Sensing my distress, my wife suggested I take them up on the offer. At this point, I’d determined I was going to push through even if I had crawl to the top.
In I’m sure is a well-practiced pitch, the man and his horse (Mariposa was her name) followed us nearly to the top, convinced I’d give in once I sensed the onset of a heart attack. The higher we climbed, the lower the price of the ride came down. Though the owner was insistent I take him up on the offer, I didn’t need to be a horse whisperer to know that Mariposa wanted no part of hauling me up.
Eventually, we made it past the treeline and into a stunning landscape reminiscent of Mars – if you’ve seen the movie The Martian (thumbs up, my favorite movie of 2016), you’ll have an idea. Better yet, watch the award-winning Guatemalan movie Ixcanul (see the trailer!), which was actually filmed here. Even if there are no rivers of flowing lava – they cooled off and hardened years ago, the landscape is striking and eerie at the same time.
The guide directed us across the landscape to where a group of tourists was already gathered. Like the children we encountered at the entrance, these tourists all had wooden sticks on their hands, albeit smaller and – curiously – with marshmallows on one end.
Turns out it’s a popular pastime to visit Pacaya and roast marshmallows atop one of the many heat vents – the hot fumes produced by the smoldering lava still trapped underneath the hardened rock on top. Oddly enough, I didn’t smell any sulfur or taste an odd flavor on my roasted marshmallows. The rivers of lava were nowhere to be found – never trust travel agency brochures.
The Lava Store
Atop Pacaya, there’s also a small kiosk, “The Lava Store”, selling trinkets and jewelry made from lava rock. Unfortunately, by the time our group made it to the top, the kiosk had closed. If interested in buying lava jewelry, you can find it for sale – at a premium, at Casa de Los Gigantes (7a Calle Oriente #18).
After eating enough marshmallows to get a sugar high, we started the descent via the other side of the volcano. This was much faster, but a bit more treacherous due to the loose rocks and sand blanketing the steep path on the way down.
Tired, but satisfied we climbed into the waiting shuttle – not before tipping the guide that accompanied us.
If you’ve never seen a volcano up close, I highly recommend a Pacaya Volcano hike. It’s accessible, inexpensive, and worth the trip.